Travel With The Thayers: #39 Bishop’s Falls Part 2

#39 Bishop’s Falls Part 2

Monday August 5, 2019

The rain thumped hard on the roof and thunder clapped across the skies. We piled into the car with all our food, maps, coats, etc. and set off on a long drive right down the middle of the province. The lessened as we got farther south. Then an oncoming driver flashed his lights and we slowed down.

There on the side of the highway a lovely mama moose stood looking at us. Lynn got the best photos of her as she ambled off across the road and into the woods. Hurray!!

Where the road turned off we found the Mi’kmaq Discovery Center. This very well organized center promotes the Mi’kmaq culture. Several of the exhibits were displayed in terms of an individual’s account.

Three walls in one large corner of the center contained posters describing things from their culture.

Each topic had two posters: one written in English, one written in Mi’kmaq.

Charts in other parts of the center showed Mi’kmaq words for colors, body parts, etc.

Large canoes and drum showed the craftsmanship of the Mi’kmaq culture.

The cabin exhibit came with a first-hand account of the cabin’s owner.

Some displays include 3-sided reader boards. One side was written in English, one in French and one in Mi’kmaq. We liked this stop.

We passed through Milltown on our way to the end of the road, St. Alban’s.

Salmon farms extend out into the water. You can see more across the water in the bottom photo.

The tour book said Captain Cook’s Landing site with an historical account could be found in St. Albans a little way southwest. So off we go! After asking several locals, it was determined that the exhibit had been removed and all that was left was the sign pictured above and the little park here.

However, we did close up and personal with what we think are Atlantic salmon pens. We are seeing these in several places.

As you look across the bay, this church stood out among the houses. Unlike most churches, this one had no sign indicating a name or denomination. Our Lady of Lourdes and Bernadette statues stand in front, so it is a good guess that this church is Our Lady of Lourdes, Roman Catholic.

Having come to the end of this road, we retraced our path to the main highway and continued south for another hour until we reached Harbour Breton.

The fog hanging over the hills created an interesting scene.

You find painted rocks all over the island: some in very unusual spots. These were at a scenic view point. Flower beds are a common feature at any lookout here.

Unfortunately we arrived on “Civic Holiday” day. Each town celebrates its heritage across Canada. It’s a National Holiday! Thus, some of the tourist places were closed.

The Sunny Cottage Heritage Centre was closed. Later on the trip we met people who had been married there.

The red and white lighthouse sat out on the point. A visit to the lighthouse required climbing up and down flights of stairs. The guys were still recovering from the many stairs they have walked recently, so they joined Lynn and I in passing.

What we did find was a neighborhood, high on the hill above the lighthouse with huge homes.

We did stop by a memorial to 4 children killed in a landslide in 1973. Four family homes were crushed. On baby survived because its crib was pushed into the attic and caught in a pocket of air. We met a woman who lived nearby and remembered the disaster vividly. The other lady told us not to miss seeing Deadman’s Cove.

Above the memorial one fisherman had these traps stacked on his lawn.

Across a causeway, we explored another part of town. We chatted with three good ole boys hanging out at a viewpoint. They told us that fishermen fish when the season is open for cod, lobster, capelin, shrimp, snow crab etc. When the season is closed they hang around the house doing home maintenance and getting a government stipend.

Scenes from Harbour Breton (population 1,634)

More sights. The town is located on both sides of this inlet. Most towns sit on the shore of the bay.

The lady from the memorial told me this story. Deadman’s Cove received its name when a dead body floated ashore. The problem that presented is that no one knew him. Even worse than that, no one knew his religious affiliation and thus they didn’t know which church was responsible for his burial! The lady’s expressions said this was a very big deal!!!

It may need to be noted that the churches are the main part of the community. We most frequently see, Pentecostal, Methodist, United, Trinity, some Salvation Army ones and a few Roman Catholic. Each church maintains a cemetery for their flock. Later in our trip we will see four cemeteries next to each other, labeled with a different church’s ownership.

Deadman’s Cove offers a beautiful sandy beach and two hiking trails.

A small and rustic R.V. Park sat on the bluff above the park. We decided to drive through. In the ladies washroom a “Don’t drink the water” sign was posted. The need to boil ingested water is in question many places. Some parks post the required Provincial signs to boil water, but say their water is safe to drink.

Two couples were in the park. One was just visiting from town. Their friends haled from Saskatchewan, but wintered in Mesa! They offered us a beer, but it was a long two and half hour drive or more home.

As we drove a little ways north, we were treated to a cute little bear munching berries alongside the road. He hung around for a bit, and then waddled off towards the woods.

I thought a 9 hour day in the car was hefty. These 11+ hours was too much! Today was lots of driving with just a few chances to get out and walk.

Tuesday Aug. 6, 2019

Planning on a short day today we drove north of Bishop’s Falls to Leading Tickle, (population 292).

The Jack Ward Memorial General Store Heritage Center held two floors of interesting things. We enjoyed talking with the young lady there. She majors in French at the university. I was tempted to buy some beautiful Christmas stockings. But…I resisted.

The museum upstairs had the usual things to ponder and amaze. More Blue Willow China!

I remember having a book bag like this. Does that make me an antique???? Maybe??? I can even remember the feel of it.

One of the roads in Leading Tickle led to a fishery. (And I didn’t get photos!) Large blue crates filled the area. One crate was open and two men were sorting fish. The bins were full of capelin the little fish we learned about in Trout River. One of the men came from Grand Falls-Windsor to collect a bucket of male capelin. He offered us a bucket if we wanted one. Apparently you just flour and fry them like trout. The men then told us that the female capelin are prized for their eggs and shipped to Japan. The male fish are sent to zoos and to Russia. We passed on the offer, but thanked them for the information.

Brightly colored chairs, often with a trash can nearby sit atop of bluffs all over and overlook the water. Anyone can sit and enjoy the view, especially a sunset.

Scenes from Leading Tickles include their primary school. The young lady at the store told us that many home are just used in the summer.

Several boats were out fishing this day.

Down another road, we found Glover’s Harbor. Their claim to fame is the Giant Squid Interpretive Center. In 1878 a 55’ Giant Squid was found here and hauled to shore. It weighed about 2 tons. Its body measured 20 feet and one tentacle was 35 feet. The accounts of those who found it were an interesting read. This replica hangs out on the grounds.

Very little is really known about the Giant Squid. They are just too rare. No one has ever recorded any sightings of a living, healthy squid. They have a huge eye that works much like humans.

What scientists believe as true is on this poster. After our education on the Sperm Whale the major squid predator, the visit here was interesting.

These little planters have been seen in several places along our travels.

Following the roads around the peninsula, we found more picturesque coves. A large healthy garden grew near the road.

The Mill River tumbled by the Point Leamington Heritage center. The center wasn’t much but we did enjoy the river and the kids playing in it.

Two kids were playing in the river. They were hanging from a rope strung across the river and floating with the current. It you look carefully you can see a girl’s long hair in the enlarged photo. Or not! She is directly under the lowest leaf in the photo.

These gardens looks very healthy! Oh by the way.....french fries up here are never frozen, they are always fresh cut at the restaurants.....and good!

This house shouted to be photographed!

We saved Botwood for last and that turned out to be a mistake. This jail like place is the gift shop.

We arrived just before closing, not giving us enough time for the Flying Boat Museum and other parts of the center. We would have liked more time here. Oh well!

We were fortunate that the Botwood Murals grace the side of 13 city buildings telling the history snippets here. Very Impressive!!! I am putting all of them here. They are not as impressive in my photos as they were in person.