Friday, June 25, 2010

Update # 7: Niagara Falls

Driving from Detroit to Niagara through Canada is shorter than driving through the states. However, if we chose to do that we couldn't count Ohio in our "states visited" count.   During my reservation making I was aware that Indian Creek's full hook-up sites were taken.  We searched for other places to stay, and then decided to check with Indian Creek.  We were told there plenty of water and electricity hook-ups were available just come on in.   So we drove to Geneva-on-the-Lake, Ohio. We chose to take the road closest to the scenic route, closest to the lake. I'm not sure what I expected, but Geneva-on-the-Lake wasn't it.

I may have expected a sleepy lake town.  How wrong can one be?  Traffic crept in bumper to bumper fashion both east and west down main street. Arcade noises clang out. People stopped to explore gift shops or souvenir clothing stores. Signs enticed visitors into a variety of restaurants, burger joints, ice cream shops etc. Music flowed out of the bars. People move in a constant stream from side to side. Multitudes of people amble about the town in shorts, tees, swim attire, and whatever else might be comfortable. Rows of motorcycles filled  parking slots on the street. Cars and trucks fill the rest. Little on-street parking is left. Then throw in a wine festival to the already over populated area and congested chaos ensues.

Beyond the busiest part of town, we begin the search for Indian Creek RV park. It looks like a mini market.
Off to the side is a two lane gated entrance/exit. Directions to our site were drive to the back, and look for a pole with an electric outlet and pull in.  After winding around the narrow bumpy road we found the acres of grass with a few telephone-type poles here and there.  With careful inspection each pole has two outlets...one 30 amp and one 15 amp.  For me that means only one air conditioner on a nearly 90 degree day.  But we can do it.  We find a place on the lumpy grass, only to hear that the small tent city nearby party until 4 AM.  So we move both rigs to a new position. I decided to stay in the AC environment.  Derrille, Jay and Lynn went to find the beach. Lynn waded in Lake Erie and then they found dinner at the DQ.  They brought dinner back to me.  Thank goodness this is a one night stay.


The next day we continued to take the lake road as it wanders by Lake Erie  Judging from the number of people who stopped and stared as the RVs passed, the citizens of this area must not see many rigs like ours. The back roads led us through miles and miles of vineyards that continue into Pennsylvania and New York.  Rows and rows of grapes are only interrupted with the many small wineries that dot the map. We were not aware of this being big wine country. Lovely homes sit at the water's edge with the ever present huge lawns.  One home has a private island a few feet into the lake. The city of Ashtabula shows pride in their community with well kept homes and clean streets. The small, quaint, community of Bridge has flower pots hanging from the light posts and flowers overflowing the window boxes in front of interesting looking stores. The road passes over a steel bridge which is raised to allow sailboat traffic to move between the marina and the lake.

Several groups of bikers cruise in both directions taking advantage of this beautiful sunny and warm Sunday. The road at times runs one large lot away from the lake. At other times a lane of 4-6 houses runs from the highway to the lake. Although this is high bank property, the scenery makes it special. The road is called the Seaway Trail and is part of the Lake Erie Circle Tour. In some places large maple, oak and cottonwood trees shade the highway. One section was lined with gorgeous weeping willow trees. We followed this road into Buffalo, New York and onto Grand Island.

The traffic engineer that designed the toll booth system to the island must have flunked traffic control 101. Six toll booths block the entrance to the bridge and tie up travel for a mile or so just getting there. Two lanes are EZ pass, but unlike the Narrows Bridge in Tacoma, the driver must still slow down to 5 mph and show his pass.  Four lanes collect money. 


Remember I said, 6 booths?  Well, the bridge only has two lanes angled toward the left. Needless to say, I was praying as everyone merged together. We did arrive safely at the RV park. 


 Later we discovered the island is a true bedroom community.  There are few amenities.  People must just sleep here and take care of  shopping and entertainment off the island. But we enjoyed out stay at the Niagara KOA.                        I even saw my first Cardinal bird.  What a beautiful creature. I wasn't fast enough to snap a picture.  We did ask about restaurants and were told by two people to go to "Beaches".  The real name is the Beach House.  We haven't figured out if those two people just said it fast, or we just didn't understand. The food was great!
















Niagara Falls, our reason for coming here, exceeded our expectation; we spent another full day at Niagara State Park, the oldest continuously operating state park in the country.  Private companies have posted signs saying the parking lot is full and turn in here. Attendants wearing park like attire flag you away from the state lot.  Apparently there is nothing the state can do.  We ignored their gestures and parked in the state lot a  short distance from the visitor center.




These are American Falls in the foreground and Horseshoe Falls in the background with the huge spray. The spray often rose high enough to be seen as we exited the bridge from Grand Island. It looked like steam rising from a steam plant, but in reality it was spray from the falls.







Having a great time
 at Niagara!














Avoiding the school field trip groups we boarded the Maid of the Mist boat first.  An Indian or Pakistani group beat us to the top deck, so we nestled into the bow. Everyone is given blue plastic ponchos upon boarding. The boat sails up past American Falls and the mist sweeps over you in a refreshing rain on this hot day. As the boat moves toward Horseshoe Falls you are assaulted by the distinctive smell of a seagull rookery.  ICK!  Thousands of birds call this small piece of land home.

A huge cloud of white swirls around Horseshoe Falls. The wind tears at your thin plastic shield and water pelts your face. If the wind unties your hood, as it usually does, water drips down your shirt.   It feels exhilarating. The boat drives deeper and deeper into the mist until it disappears from view. You  feel the closeness of the falls. The sound of tons of water falling and the wind's roar thunders in your ears. Photos are impossible in the strong gusting wind and pelting rain.  Then the boat turns away from the falls and floats to the calm of the river. You feel very much alive.

After docking and placing the blue poncho in a recycling bin we boarded the elevator for the return to the main level and the observation tower (photo on the left) that overlooks the falls. From below, the observation deck appears to float above you at an incredible height. The photo on the right is the dock and loading raft that sits below the observation tower.  We found purchasing the discovery ticket for $33.00 each was a money saver. So we took in the movie that came with the package. We expected something about the geology or history of the falls, but the movie focused on the idiots who searched for fame by performing stunts of daring (stupidity) around the falls.  Lunch was available at several park concessions.

We rode the trolley to a section of the park called Goat Island. Other viewing points include Luna island and those of the Three Sister islands. But the main reason for coming here is the Cave of the Winds. Originally there was a cave behind the falls and open to visitors. Many years ago the cave collapsed and the park decided it was not cost effective or safe to reopen it, however you can still hike down to the base of the falls and hike up a series of stairs and platforms..  After securing our"yellow" plastic poncho and rubber sandals we descended by elevator to the base of the cliff.


I wasn't sure I could walk in the rubber sandals, but I didn't have a problem.
 




We took a breath and walk out to the edge of the falls where you are met with pelting rain and strong winds. A series of platforms rise up beside the falls. 

 If you dare, you can attempt to make it to the back of the Hurricane Deck. 
  Lynn and I made it to the front, and the guys went to the back. The force of the wind caused by the falling water pushed against us and forced us back.  If we didn't get wet on the boat ride, we were guaranteed to get wet here. 

The wind whipped off the yellow plastic hood and water poured down our head and shoulders. Flying water blew in under the poncho and soaked us from the thighs downward, while inches of water slosh onto the platforms and over our shoes.  Now we know why they supply the rubber shoes.   WOW....what an experience!   Thank goodness it was a hot day. After returning to the top of the cliff and recycling our "yellow" ponchos, we ate ice cream cones while we attempted to dry out. We also recycled the shoes, but many people kept them as souvenirs.

The next day clouds filled the skies and it rained off and on. Again we were fortunate to have gone to the falls on the hot day.  This day we drove a Lockport, NY. Here we boarded the Lockview IV for a cruise on the Erie Canal.  This 55 passenger boat resembles the "African Queen" of the movies. It carries tourists mostly adults...(and on this trip 2 ill behaved children)  The Lockview V is a double-decker boat with a capacity of 150 people. This larger boat is used for the field trip groups.  Soooo glad they keep the kids to themselves. We observed several school groups coming and going. Kids cruise for one hour. Tourist for two hours.

The canal connects the Hudson River with the Niagara River and the Great Lakes.   The canal is 363 miles in length and was dug by hand between 1817 and 1825.  Much of the rock displaced was used in building homes and churches for the various towns along it path. The stone walls that supported the original locks were large stones cut by masons. No mortar was used in the construction. They stayed in place by their sheer weight and the precision of the cut. Impressive!
 A ledge on the north side of the canal was created for the mules who used to tow the barges. In spots where it is clear, the path is used for walking, jogging or biking.

According to the brochure the canal opened the frontier for westward development. More people traveled to the West on the canal than later went through Ellis Island. Today it is used by barge and tour traffic. The farmers also use the water for irrigation, which probably keeps the canal operational.  Commercial shipping uses the Saint Lawrence Seaway.

 Originally a flight of five double locks moved traffic up and down the canal.  They can be seen on the right side of this photo.Those five have been reduced to two much wider locks: # 34 and 35.  There are 35 locks between Lockport and Albany, NY.  They vary in size and the amount of water levels that change. 


 


Locks 34 and 35 are designed so boats on one side of the gate can be lowered while boats on the other side are being raised. At this point the boats on each side exchange places, the locks close and each boat continues to the next part of the locks.

 



The flow of water through the locks happens because of gravity. Spillways help to maintain the desired level. which today is kept lower than when originally used. The operation of the canal is seasonal.  By the first of November a large gate, similar to a garage door is put in place to block the Niagara River. Within two days the canal will be empty, and stay that way until they raise the gate in April.


Besides going through the locks, we saw and upside down railroad bridge. It was put in upside down in the hopes of disrupting canal traffic.

We passed under the widest bridge in the United States.  The bridge accommodates Main Street that passes over the canal diagonally and some small parking lots too. 

We also passed under two that raise and lower straight up, just like the bridge we saw in Duluth, MN. (except on a smaller scale, here)  Derrille and Jay noticed a previous boat waiting in between the bridges. Usually both bridges are manned by one bridge worker.  He raises one bridge and then gets in his car and drives to the next bridge to open it. We even passed the company that made the first jigsaw puzzle.  To our delight the sun peeked through a bit during our boat ride. As we cruised into the dock, the skies opened up once again.

The main building for the cruise company looks like an 1800 canal town. The landscaped grounds and banquet facilities are available year round for meeting or weddings.

We had read about the Lockport Cave and underground boat ride, but decided against it for various reasons.

On our way to the Erie Canal we passed a vet office. Murphy, our brown/black tabby cat,  needed a refill on his pills. The first vet didn't have a big enough pharmacy and sent us to a larger vet hospital. They weren't interested in helping either. Then Derrille remembered our vet saying that Wal-green's could fill it because it was "people" medicine. The people at Wal-green's were more than happy to help. The called our vet, who fax the prescription, and they filled it. In the process Murphy needed to be logged into their system, under his name, not ours.  So now Murphy Thayer is in the system and has his own Walgreen's Saving Club Card! We got a kick out of that, but were very appreciative of their help.

We had another day at this spot, but chose to take a day off.  We could have chosen to go to Toronto or Buffalo, but declined. Toronto is hosting the G-20 summit meeting with great security restrictions and protesters. Good choice to skip that. A protester was arrested this day.  We did get a bit of a thrill however with the 5.0 earthquake centered in Ottawa. The RV shook in that familiar pattern.  Who knew they had earthquakes up here?

Next stop:  Watkins Glen at Finger Lakes and Corning, NY

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Update 6: The Ford Museum and Greenfield Village, MI


The short trip from Shipshewana, IN to Ypsilanti, MI took us by more cornfields and more houses surrounded by neatly trimmed large lawns. Several times we rose over a small hill to descend into a "village".  The Village of Jonesville was established in 1828.  As old and new collide we found several cemeteries just inches from the roadway. One cemetery was positioned in the strip of land between a grocery store parking lot and the busy city street.  When Wal-Mart stores began to appear, they were constructed of brick...nice looking buildings.

The Detroit-Greenfield Campground became an experience in itself. The RV park lived as a KOA in a former lifetime. The lake belongs to the campground and offers boating, fishing and a swim area. A couple of graceful white swans also reside there.  I had made reservations before leaving home.  Apparently they forgot we wanted two sites together. The solution was to move Lynn and Jay next to our assigned spot #27.
Problem:  someone was in # 27  One lady had them checked out. So...we were to wait in #106.  When the owners of the RV returned, we discovered they had rechecked in and paid for the night. Office mix-up. We were told we could have it the next day. OK, but we will be gone touring before checkout time. So we moved to #64 for the day.  We returned later.  Someone new is in #27. Office mix-up.  We were moved to #109.  Now we just discovered that they billed us for both our site and Stauss' site, even though Lynn gave them her card. You can guess how we feel about this place.  Oh, well...

While here Jay and Lynn purchased a new bike rack and we made a trip to the Post Office to mail some updates to those who don't have computers.



The Ford Museum and Greenfield Village are located in Dearborn, MI just a little SW of Detroit and about an half hour drive from the campground. Many thanks to whoever suggested this as a "must see"! It certainly is!  The 12 acre museum building "tells stories of men and women whose vision and courage changed the world around them." (from pamphlet)



Jay, Lynn and Derrille waiting for me to finishing photographing the front of the Henry Ford Museum.








The exhibits chronicle the development of Transportation and how the inventions affected our lives. Buggies, sleighs, railroads  and cars consume a large part of the museum. We were impressed that the  information presented all sides of the issues.  In the buggy/coach section, Ford acquired the carriage that Tom Thumb and his family used. Tom Thumb was a real person, a midget, who worked for the Barnum and Bailey Circus. Derrille stood by the carriage to give it some perspective.


I don't know if this close up of Tom Thumb's carriage will show.



The railroad section included the mammoth Allegheny Locomotive of 1941.  It was so tall it nearly touched the ceiling and so long I couldn't fit it all into one photo. Visitors were allowed into the cab of this coal driven engine. The heat created with the coal must have been stifling and smelly for the engineers. Here are the guys in the cab.



 One of the first trains made just added flanges to stage coach wheels and placed them on rails. This is the DeWitt train.

The evolution of the car shows all cars, not just Fords. Unions were also a focus. The development of the car is viewed by walking down a curving highway-like path. At the end of the path Ford shows how the love of the car brought forth a mobile society in need of service stations, restaurants, motels, and eventually fast food. The museum has real life size signs of service stations and fast food logos.


A row of presidential cars. include these three among others.

Teddy Roosevelt's Brougham circa 1902


Franklin Delano Roosevelt's Sunshine Special
   1939 Lincoln

The Kennedy car, 1961 Lincoln in which he was assassinated.

Sections are devoted to the bicycle, motorized bikes,and  racing cars An interesting fact informed us that as the bicycle became a favored form of transportation, it was responsible for the invention of womens' bloomers.



The aviation section highlighted the birth of the airplane, Wright Brothers, Amelia Earhart, Lindbergh and the creation of air mail to name a few. Some of the airmail stories show the trials and daring akin to the pony express riders.

The Liberty and Justice section displays exhibits of Women's Suffrage, Slavery and Emancipation, Lincoln and Rosa Parks to name a few.  Lincoln's red velvet chair from the theater is on display. The actual bus where Rosa took her seat is also here. However, Rosa's story as told here isn't as we remember it.  The story seems to have been revised a bit.

A large area was devoted to monstrous Machinery: huge water pumps, grist mills, electric dynamos, lathe, cotton gin, gear cutter, and a band saw taller than me.  A horse on a treadmill to provide horse drawn power stood there also. I didn't spend a lot of time here.  Several men delved into the exhibits while their wives sat on benches near by.

Farm Machinery filled another space with the biggest to the smallest on display. Derrille stood next to this small 1929 caterpillar tractor.  He thought you "lunch bunch" guys would like this.

The1946 Dynahouse inventor was ahead of his time. This round house suspended from a single pole, 18 inches above the ground, had a reason for every part. For instance instead of trying to seal the metal sheets of the roof to keep out the rain, u-shaped gutters were added indoors. The rain came through the roof to the gutters and then ran into a rainwater cistern below the house.  You can find variations on his inventions in today's RVs.

Timeline through the decades showing products, important events and trends of that decade takes up a small section of the museum.  Small hallway exhibits of Jewelry, Clocks, and Pewter fit between the courtyards of the building.

Restaurants at both ends of the museum offer a place to sit down and refuel. We chose the Michigan Cafe....perhaps the Weinermobile Cafe would have been a better choice. Two gift shops offer and interesting stock of mementos. An IMAX theater offers educational and modern film choices.

Greenfield Village buildings use about 81 acres of the land designated as village property. Henry Ford gathered the actual homes and work buildings of his contemporaries and others that allow visitors to step back into a earlier time.   The village includes Ford's Model T, Edison at Work, Porches and Parlors, Main Street, Liberty Craftworks, the Working Farms and the Railroad.



We began our visit with a train ride around the property to get an overview before we began walking.


Jay has a little problem wearing wrist bands. Here the depot helper puts a stamp on Jay.  Wearing the wristband lets you ride any mode of transportation in the park, all day long. Jay carried his wristband in his pocket.  Of course we noticed that no one seemed to check for it.






Ford's Model T section includes his actual family home, workshop and school.  The four of us took our Model T rides around the neighborhood from here.We were in one car, and Stauss' in another. The ride attentant offers to take your picture if you have a camera.

Lynn and Jay's photo is on her camera.



Main Street has original houses and shops generally found on Main Street. Some examples include: the Wright Brothers shop and family home, the Heintz family home, a general store, a chapel, a court house, a doctors house, the carousel and several eating places.  This photo shows the Wright brothers family home.

We chose to have lunch at the Eagle Tavern and partake of its authentic 1850 recipes. The building originally was built as a roadhouse in the early 19th century.  The entry way was dark and only lit by candles. Inside the dining room chandeliers with candles and a single candle in a hurricane lamp glass per table provide the light. Without the windows and a sunny day you would be dining in a very dark environment. Salt was provided in a pinch dish. Coffee was poured from small pewter pots Each table sat 8-10 people. Wait staff were dresses in clothing from that era. We did enjoy the food and the Eagle Tavern experience.

Porches and Parlors consists of about 25 original structures, mostly homes. Visitors get to go inside the homes of George Washington Carver, Robert Frost, Noah Webster, Thomas Edison, Stephan Foster, and others.  The Cotswold Cottage and Forge comes from England. It also houses a tea room.  A windmill, farmhouse,  boarding house and plantation house can be explored. 
Noah Webster's house is on the left, and the Susquehanna plantation house is on the right.

There is even a covered bridge that we walked across and rode a horse-drawn shuttle across.

This is considered a shuttle. One is open like then, and one is more enclosed. We didn't try the bus.





Edison at Work shows his offices and labs.  Thomas Edison was a good friend of Henry Ford. This section was a paradigm shift for me.  I've always pictured Edison working mostly alone in his lab. With this exhibit I learned that he employed a great number of people and wanted to invent something new every day.

The Railroad section has a real train roundhouse and station. It houses the engines used in the train ride. It provides demonstrations on the workings of a round house.


Liberty Craftworks include: glass blowing, printing, weaving, pottery and sawmills.  Artisans create wares for the gift shops. Demonstrations are given throughout the day.

Lynn and I met Margaret, this lovely lady in the print shop.  She has worked for Greenfield Village for six years.  She used to work in the machinery shop. She said at first she was scared of the big machinery, but she came to love it. That's the exhibit where visitors can make candle holders. Then an opening came up in the print shop and they asked her to work there.  Notice that she is not as tall as the printing press.

The Firestone Farm remains a working farm. We watched corn being mowed by a horse drawn team. All the teams of horses work in the same team and have appropriate names for the village.  The farm duo was Noah and Webster. 
Wilbur and Orville had to be changed when Wilbur was retired.  Now it's Orville and Jim. Doc and Howard are named after the doctor's office located on Main Street.

A variety of daily programs are offered throughout the park.  Some are skits, some have music, some are demonstrations and in some places you can make candles, candle holders or blow glass.

Another wonderful adventure! Another wonderful day!

However the day wasn't quite done. I knew my camera contained hundreds of photos. So we decided to take advantage of the nearby Wal-Mart in Dearborn. Run the photos, go to dinner, and pick up photos...wrong!  It takes a while to download and fix the photos for printing.  I finished at 7pm to discover the entire photo crew had gone to lunch. Our order wouldn't even be started until 8 pm and thus not ready until after 9.  Oh well, we went to dinner and returned to check on the order a little after 9. They were about 1/3 done. The photo counter closes at 9:30, but Christie said she worked until 10 and would keep it going.  After the machine ran out of paper she reloaded.  She left at 10 and turned the process over to Jack. About 10:30 we took our 800 photos and headed for the door.  The order was doubled so Lynn and I could each have the photos taken.  The day had been in the high 80's and we were dressed appropriately. As we exited the doors rain pelted down in torrents, the wind blew sideways at gale force, lightening flashed, and thunder rolled. What a surprise!  Driving home was yet another adventure.  We got soaked just getting back into the RVs. The storm blew over and the sun returned with its heat the next day.

We chose not to visit downtown Detroit, but to head for Niagara Falls.