#26 On the Way to the Bread Ovens

#26  On the Way to the Bread Ovens

July 9, 2019

We bounced along the wonderful roads of Newfoundland for 3 hours in search of the bread ovens.  The route took us from Codroy up to the bigger town of Stephenville.  They actually had a couple of box stores and fast food places.  Then west to a triangular shaped peninsula with Cape St. George in its southwestern corner.

A bumpy sign warning appeared about every 100-200 feet.  Really?  We didn’t notice??!!!

The road followed the sea at times and then wound through the hills.

We happened upon Our Lady of Mercy Catholic Church designed in 1912, but took eleven years to build with volunteer labor and donated materials.  It stood from 1914-1925.  This church is the largest wooden structure in Newfoundland and Labrador.  It received Provincial Heritage status in 1997. This is considered Renaissance Revival Architecture. We didn’t go to the museum or inside the church, error on my part.

These statues are outside of the museum. 

The road rose up a mountainside.   Two moose were grazing at the side of the road, but dashed away into the forest before we could get photos.   Near the top of the hill sat one of the largest gravel pits we’ve ever seen. 

As we crested the hill we saw the town of Mainland below. We had arrived!

 This cute place had some interesting lawn art.

However we couldn’t find the bread ovens.  So we stopped to ask directions at the Mainland Cultural and Heritage Centre.

We opened the door and literally stopped at what we saw. The polished wood, the stage, the dining room with the waitress in period costume, and the gift shop amazed us.

The gift shop offered many different items with a Mummer’s theme.  When in Port aux Basques we saw a mural with people in drape like masks. I wondered what it was about. The young man in the gift shop explained Mummers to me. Mummers are a Newfoundland tradition, but can be found in Labrador and Pennsylvania.  People dress up, cover their faces and call upon neighbors. They dance and act silly without saying anything.  The neighbors must provide food and drink until they can guess who are behind the masks.

Their outside exhibits did include a French Bread Oven, but not the one we were looking for. Oops!

We apparently missed Cape St. George.  The very nice people instructed us to go back over the mountain and at the bottom we will find the ovens.

Boutte du Cap Park had the French Bread Oven we were looking for.

These lovely ladies give out free, freshly baked rolls with a variety of jam.  YUM! 

 

The bread came in the form of rolls and melted in our mouths!  It was so delicious.   Hurrah! We found the correct place!

A memorial dedicated to the Acadians of Newfoundland stood with its flags blowing in the breeze.   France established the community of L’Acadie in 1604 and was later handed over to the British and renamed Nova Scotia.  1755 the Acadians were perceived as a threat to the English and 10,000 men, women, and children were piled into ships and transported to other colonies , England and France.   In ten years almost half of the Acadian population was lost at sea, died from disease or famine. Only 1600 survived in Nova Scotia.  Many sought new homes in France or Quebec or in Louisiana and produced the Cajon culture.  Many made it here to Newfoundland and Labrador.  Between 1850 and 1868 two thirds of the births recorded were of Acadian descent.  Thus this memorial!  The story is etched into the sides in both English and French.

A decision was made to follow the road north to Lourdes.  That meant going back over the mountain again. On the way we stopped at the crash site of an American C-54 that left New York Nov. 11, 1944.  It drifts off course and crashes new Cape St. George.  The Harmon Airforce built a base in Stephenville in 1940.  It closed in 1966. During its time Harmon field became a vital refueling stop for planes transporting personnel and supplies to Europe.  The reader boards describe the event and rescue efforts of the local people.

Up the road from Mainland the community of Lourdes begins.  Our destination was the Grotto of our Lady of Lourdes.   About 98% of the people in Lourdes are Roman Catholic.  The church represents the center of this community.  At one time the town had a different name, but an influential priest and nun changed it to Lourdes. The idea of a grotto came from a parishioner.  

The plaques on each part of the grotto names the people who donated materials, time or know how.  A local mason did all of the stone work. The creation of the grotto in 1987 helped celebrate the 75^th anniversary of this parish.

The Stations of the Cross line the path.

Statues of St. Francis and the Good Shepard sit between the stations.

The plants in front of the grotto are also donated yearly.  The Grotto itself is part of the base rock upon which the church sits.  A little waterfall fills a pool behind St. Bernadette.  The large rosary is constructed from fishing buoys.

Christ stands on the hill.

Meet Jenielle and Morgan.  They spoke with us for a long time.  Jenielle said her family has lived in the family home for four generations.  Their neighbors have too, so they have had the same neighbors for four generations.  Morgan is a senior this coming year and Jenielle just graduated.  She plans to go to nursing school (for a backup occupation in the event she doesn’t pass the tests to become a lawyer.)  They said about 600 people live here and the population is declining every day.  Retired people return, but then age and die. Young people go away to earn a living.  Their dads fish for a living.  They said at one time the school had 700 students, but today counts only 120.  All the high school students go to the one high school on the peninsula.  Jenielle had the largest graduating class ever with 40 students.

Both girls’ parents came from big families.  If I remember correctly Jenielle’s mom had 69 first cousins.  Jenielle has about 47 herself.  Morgan said her family is so big they can’t all fit in one house. Sort of answers the question of why there are so many two storied homes.

Lynn and I experienced a delightful time talking with these two young ladies

Oliver’s Restaurant came recommended, but it wasn’t much.  Maybe the pizza is better.

Just a pretty patch of flowers! These grow in several areas. We were told they are flocks.

The clouds were gathering on our way home.  As in many places here, the peninsulas use causeways to connect the mainland.

I find it fascinating to see so many doors just hanging off the house. No porches or stairs. We finally asked.  The building code of Newfoundland requires each structure to have two entrances.  However, if you know you are not going to be using the doorway, why put out the extra expense of a porch?

Besides, you can always add a porch later.  Sometimes the porch or stoop is added, but not at the level of the door jamb.  The two red houses are neighbors.  One with a porch, one without.

Wood piles stand ready in many yards.  Considering electricity didn’t come to many parts of the island until 1966, and it is cold in the winter, the piles make sense.

Another Interesting day!